Who Put the Masala in the Dosa?

Traditionally Dosa was always served with chutney. One day, as an innovation, he decided to tuck potato masala into the folds of a Dosa.

We’re a nation of epicures and our love for food has made its own tales, trails and range. Indians show their love by feeding people. And for all our diversity, our love for food is the one common element that unites us all, despite the fact that cuisines from different parts of the country are incredibly varying. Still, you might have wondered while enjoying the rich culinary culture of the country, who developed certain staples. Here are some charming etymological trivia that I found.

The earliest story of Idli occurs in the Kannada writing ‘Vaddaradhane’ in 970 A.D., where it features as one of the eighteen items served to a Brahmachari who visits the home of a lady.

Sambhar, as a dish, was created as recently as the 18th century! It is said that it originated in the kitchen of Thanjavur Maratha ruler- Shahuji (also called Shahji), who had an immense liking for a dish called amti. The dish was special because it had kokum as one of its main ingredients. However, catastrophe struck during one particular season, the kokum ran out of supply. However, some brilliant adviser in this court suggested that they try tamarind pulp for the sourness–an ingredients locals swore by. Shahji experimented the dish with toor dal, vegetables, spices and the tamarind pulp and served his cousin, Sambhaji, who was visiting him. The court loved the dish so much that they created a whole new supply of tamarind, and named the dish sambhar after their guest, Sambhaji.

These anecdotes are charming but the one that is part of my lineage and I am delighted to present, is that of the Masala Dosa. Masala Dosa, the name is enough to activate the salivary glands- The rice and lentil batter fuse together to become golden-brown crispy crepes rounded off with a filling of delicious potato and onion palya and served with side accompaniments of a spicy chutney and tangy sambhar. Dosa was only served with chutney in the 1900s and a potato dish.

There is an interesting story to how this glorious combination was born!

Mr. K. Krishna Rao was one day faced with a shortage of potatoes that was usually served as a dish with crisp dosa. The portion size of the said curry that day, became too meagre and he was challenged to come up with an idea to appease his clients. What he ingenuously did was add onions along with sautéed spices to add texture and volume to the dish. According to the Brahminical culinary tradition, onions were a forbidden vegetable and to conceal that he wrapped up the spiced potato-onion combo within the folds of a dosa. Thus was born the Masala Dosa.

There are interesting variations to this fare- Mysore masala dosa which comes with a red chutney made from red chillies, onion, and garlic applied to the inside of the dosa before placing the potato stuffing on top of it. Rava masala dosa is made from semolina and using fillings of cheese and paneer. We also have modern, healthy variations like Masala Dosa stuffed with vegetables or sprouts to replace potato.

This virtuous meal brought to us because of my grandfather Mr. K. Krishna Rao’s creative efforts to combat the shortage of potatoes eons ago, is still served every single day as a favourite breakfast to a million people around the world! A matter of deep pride.